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A bespoke BodyMap ensemble made for the Michael Clark Dance Co for a performance of ’our caca phoney H.our caca phoney H’, 1985 A bespoke BodyMap ensemble made for the Michael Clark Dance Co for a performance of ’our caca phoney H.our caca phoney H’, 1985 labelled, the black and white Hilde Smith print of winged zebras, stars and vegetation taken from ’Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature’s Cosmic Curves’ A/W 1985-86, comprising: a tailcoat with ties to front waist, black faux-fur to underarms, looped black faux-fur bow to rear tails and black plaited streamers below, bust 86cm 34in; a loose printed cotton crop top; a one-side stretch lycra body with black frill above the pants section, single strap and black bandeau band; and a pair of matching stockings (5) Provenance: The Mr Steven Philip Collection For Michael Clark’s performance, our caca phoney H.our caca phoney H’ elements were taken from Trojan’s (Leigh Bowery’s lover) still-life compositions and cartoon-like illustrations to inspire the set and objects, such as bottles, crosses and chains, that were blown up as large inflatable props, carried by the dancers in their arms or across their backs. The costumes were designed by David Hollah and Stevie Stewart of BodyMap. The designs from ’Barbee Takes a Trip...’ were further embellished with fake fur.. Exhibited: Fashion & Textile Museum, ‘Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London’ 4th October 2024 -9th March 2025 Share this lot:

A bespoke BodyMap ensemble made for the Michael Clark Dance Co for a performance of ’our caca phoney H.our caca phoney H’, 1985

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 09/12/2025

A BodyMap printed cotton jersey top, ’Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature’s Cosmic Curves’ collection, Spring-Summer 1985 A BodyMap printed cotton jersey top, ’Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature’s Cosmic Curves’ collection, Spring-Summer 1985 unlabelled, wide swing cut racerback tank top printed with a variety of multicoloured Hilde Smith prints, bust approx 102cm, 40in; together with a blue and white striped cotton Gallagher Walls dress, mid-1980s, V-neck with ruched panels and a frill to the hem, labelled, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2) Share this lot:

A BodyMap printed cotton jersey top, ’Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature’s Cosmic Curves’ collection, Spring-Summer 1985

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 17/10/2025

A BodyMap top and jacket, mid-1980s A BodyMap top and jacket, mid-1980s both labelled, the white lycra halterneck-top printed with a surrealistic collage, featuring sailor stars, eyes, and faces in flowers, black panel to back, bust 86cm, 34in; the black bomber-style jacket with a brown faux fur-lined hood that unzips to form a wide collar, bust 97cm, 38in (2) Share this lot:

A BodyMap top and jacket, mid-1980s

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 17/10/2025

Hilde Smith fabrics for BodyMap: ’Olive Oil Meets Querelle’ collection, Spring-Summer 1984 the printed modal jersey panels, comprising: first strike silk screen test for ’Sailor Stripe, August, 1983, 166 by 183cm; together with panels of ’Anchor Stitch’ and ’Anchor Star’,designed November, 1983, 108 by 150, 110 by 150cm; together with two SS 1984 press images; a press cutting and a Hilde Smith ’Sailor Stripe’ paper design signed by the artist and dated Nov 19, 1983 (6)The Hilde Smith ArchiveThis was the first collection in which Stevie Stewart & David Holah collaborated. Hilde Smith recalls, ’Olive Oil was the female cartoon character from ’Popeye’. Querelle is a film directed in 1982 by German director Rainer Werner Fassbinder starring Brad Davis and Jeanne Moreau and is an adaption of the novel by the French author Jean Genet Querelle de Breast (1947). It was the last film by Fassbinder who died that year. The artists Claude Monet and Camille Pissarro inspired Raoul Dufy and I in turn was inspired by Dufy’s textile scarf ’La Danse’. I made a linocut in ’BodyMap style’ re-drawing the sailor, then printed the linocut images, made photocopies before cutting and pasting the sailors into a repeat. Finally, I drew the whole design repeat in Indian ink with a dip pen in my a 1m by 1m light box desk. The prints designed in 1982 were ’Sailor Stripe’, ’Mini Anchor’, ’Star Anchor’. We used black and white black pigment on colour. We decided to produce 3 one colour prints rather than one three-colour print. The prints were produced and proofed in Bermondsey railway arches by David Jamison.

Tissus Hilde Smith pour BodyMap : collection « Olive Oil Meets Querelle », printemps-été 1984

Estimation : 350 - 500 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 20/06/2023

Hilde Smith fabrics for BodyMap : ’Cat in the hat takes a rumble with techno fish’ AW 1984 designed May 1983, comprising: panels of ’Star Stripe’ in red and white colourways on polyester velvet/lycra, 81.5 by 86cm, 151 by 107cm; two first silk screen test strikes ’Techno Mesh’ (big) in red and white colourways, 142 by 125cm, 262 by 75cm; ’Techno’ (small) on cotton polyestra lycra in white and yellow colourways, 136 by 139cm,138 by 93cm; a pair of ’Star Stripe’ stockings; single ’Techno’ glove; together with a large quantity of press cuttings relating to the AW 1984 collection; and a Riverside Studios flyer, August ’84 for the world premiere of Michael Clark & Company performance wearing BodyMap costumes (qty)The Hilde Smith ArchiveHilde Smith recalls: ’I was becoming curious about technology. David Holah got the idea. He suggested the image of TV interference on screen, encountered when a TV aerial needed a re-tune. I ran with that. The options available to me in those pre-home computer years were my hand-manipulated photocopies using overlays of acetate which had been drawn on using Sharpie pens and collages. That led to Andy Warhol being extremely amused, as he renamed me ’Hilde Xerox’, in TriBeCa, NYC. The name stuck. The nautical star returned in the ’Star Stripe’ print, other designs included ’Techno Big’, ’Techno Small’. The ’Techno’ print was inspired by our love of the Chanel suit tweed - I designed a Techno Zerox version of tweed. Again, we used black pigment on colour-dyed cloth. We decided to produce 3 one colour prints rather than one three colour print. Prints proofed and produced in Bermondsey railway arches by David Jamison.

Tissus Hilde Smith pour BodyMap : « Le chat chapeauté affronte un poisson techno » AW 1984

Estimation : 800 - 1200 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 20/06/2023

Hilde Smith fabrics for BodyMap : ’’ Barbee takes a trip around nature’s cosmic curves’, Spring -Summer, 1985 designed May-September, 1984, comprising: two black on white first silk screen strikes of ’Cosmic Nature’ on organdie, 150 by 88cm and cotton poplin 93 by 180cm; an original signed design dated 15 May 1984; three panels of ’Cosmic Check (small) 136 by 93cm, 131 by 109cm, 136 by 98cm; two large samples - first silk screen strikes of ’Cosmic Stripe’; two further ’Cosmic Stripe’ panels on viscose jersey in red and yellow; and a first silk screen colourway test in red of ’Cosmic Check’ ; and a signed original design for ’Cosmic Check’ dated 15 May 1984,(12)The Hilde Smith ArchiveFor this collection Hilde continued to draw using Sharpie pens and nib-pens with Indian ink and used a photocopier to distort drawn images. The prints for this collection comprised: ’Cosmic Check Big’, ’Cosmic Check Small’, ’Cosmic Nature’, The iconic nautical BodyMap star was included in the ’Cosmic Nature’ design. The collection included lots of frills, ruffles, Cosmic buttons, Cosmic stickers, Cosmic labels, copper jewellery. The show invite was made from distorted linocuts. She recalls, ’’I experimented using a micro-glass ball reflective print paste, now re-invented with modern technology for textiles and used by security clothing firms, but 39 years ago the only available option was the glass beads which were added to paint for road markings. But the cost was too cosmic...because every 25 metres the screens wore out - an unrealistic idea for production. The prints were proofed and produced in Bermondsey railway arches by David Jamison.

Tissus Hilde Smith pour BodyMap : '' Barbee fait un voyage autour des courbes cosmiques de la nature '', Printemps-Été, 1985

Estimation : 800 - 1200 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 20/06/2023

Hilde Smith fabrics for BodyMap, ’Half World’ collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86 designed May-November,1985, comprising: first screen print test gold ’Glitter Star’ on black cotton/rayon, 149 by 117cm; ’Seven Demons’ first screen strike - blue and gold print on grey jersey, 137 by 100cm; ’Mistic Paisley’ yellow and black on red rayon jersey 146 by 135cm, another on black jersey 135 by 110cm, two small fragments in black satin, 46 by 37cm and ivory jersey,’ 84 by 72cm; ’Tarot’ first silk screen strike in yellow on black jersey, 142 by 108cm; together with eight plastic coated double sided press clippings; and a folder of small fabric samples (qty)The Hilde Smith ArchiveFor this collection Hilde Smith used two colour prints using pearlized pigments. The new print designs comprised ’Seven Demons’, ’Mistic Paisley’, ’Tarot Fortune’. The iconic nautical BodyMap star was drawn into the ’Tarot Fortune’ design. She drew with pen and Indian ink and laid out tight repeats using her photocopy collage technique. The prints were proofed and produced in Bermondsey railway arches by David Jamison and Ivo Prints in Butlers Wharf.

Tissus Hilde Smith pour BodyMap, collection « Half World », automne-hiver 1985-1986

Estimation : 1000 - 1500 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 20/06/2023

Hilde Smith fabrics for BodyMap, ’Is a Comet a star...a moon... a sun...Aura Racoon’, Spring-Summer, 1986 designed November,1985,comprising: first silk screen print for ’Sun & Moon’ purple colourway on nylon, 156 by 93cm; together with five further printed nylon fabric samples in yellow, 92 by 92cm ivory, 180 by 94cm, 180 by 96cm and 135 by 95cm, and orange 92 by 92 cm; and six double sided plastic coated press clippings, one full page from British Vogue, February 1986, another showing Hilde Smith wearing a tent dress, bell bottoms in the ’’Occult and raccoon’ (Sun & Moon) print fabric she designed for BodyMap.’; and a Hilde Smith racoon print flyer for the Spring 1986 show, (qty)The Hilde Smith ArchiveHilde Smith recalls the design process for this collection: ’The word pixel is a portmanteau of pix (from pictures, shortened to pics) and el (for element) similar formations with ’el’. The word pix appeared in Variety magazine headlines in 1932, as an abbreviation for the word pictures in reference to still pictures by photojournalists. The word ’pixel was first published in 1965 by Frederic C. Billingsley of Caltech’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory where it describes the picture elements of scanned images from space probes to the Moon and Mars. Billingsley had learned the word from Keith E.McFarland, who in turn said that he did not know from where it originated. McFarland said simply it was in use at the same time - circa 1963. I think of mosaics as early pixels. I was working in a world without a world.wide.web and our Apple Mac home computer could not handle images in those early years. It was essentially a clever word processor. I definitely had no means of ’bitmapping’ or ’pixelating’ images. My obsession with corrupting my hand-drawn images or linocuts using a random method led me to a technical chat with a TV cameraman at a photoshoot. Besides designing - I became a BodyMap catwalk, photo and exhibition sales model. We got chatting about my desire to corrupt my drawings further. However, the cameraman his mates, and I gave our ideas a go. He filmed my hand-drawn images using his TV camera connected to an editing screen. We repeatedly changed the camera lens focus and contrast until we had a random bitmap image which I photographed from the screen one at a time. All these wonderful pixels in exchange for a curry - it was worth it. I had ’PIXELS’. I drew on the images after photocopying them in India Ink using a dip pen and a Sharpie and then cut and pasted them into the design repeats. The prints for this collection were named ’Stars’, ’Sun & Moon’ and ’Cometa’. The ’Glitter Star’ prints used in this collection were printed on wet-look black lycra in glitter pigment for swimwear that left little to the imagination. The male catwalk models loved the effect! We printed black and glitter and copper pigments on colour-dyed cloth. We decided to produce three one colour prints rather than one three colour print. The prints were proofed and produced in Bermondsey railway arches by David Jamison and Ivo Prints in Butlers Wharf. Boy George was one of the show models.

Tissus Hilde Smith pour BodyMap, « Is a Comet a star...a moon...a sun...Aura Racoon », printemps-été 1986

Estimation : 500 - 900 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 20/06/2023

Hilde Smith fabrics for BodyMap, ‘The Tudors, The Stewart and the The Holah’ Autumn-Winter, 1986-87 designed May-June1986, comprising: three first silk screen strikes for ’Celtic Pixel’ with a gold and teal print on white cotton, 139 by 113cm, brown and bronze print on white cotton, 139 by 66cm, the third gold on purple, 141 by 117cm; and a panel of ’Tudor Check’ shot polyester taffeta, 96 by 89cm; together with an original design for ’Map-Lion’ signed and dated 2nd June, 1985; and three double-sided press clippings boards (8)The Hilde Smith ArchiveHilde Smith used a dip pen and an Italic fountain pen with India Ink to create the designs for this collection. The digitalised Celtic Swirl print was corrupted with access to a video camera connected to a black and white television. After the screenshots and photocopying, she drew on the images using India Ink, a dip pen and a Sharpie. Her cut and paste technique finalised the design process. The print names for this collection were: ’Tudor Check’, ’Celtic Swirl’ and ’Lion Map’. They were printed onto stretch denim, poplin, organide and shot acetate taffetas. The prints were proofed and produced in Bermondsey railway arches by David Jamison. This was her last working collaboration with BodyMap. She left their studio to lecture at St Martins full time whilst selling designs freelance in Italy, and gave guest lectures all over the UK, Japan, New York and Toronto. Later in 1986 she began buying and developing derelict properties in Islington, Hackney and later in Barcelona, Tarifa and Algeciras, Spain. She has made Spain her home and is now a Spanish National.

Tissus Hilde Smith pour BodyMap, « Les Tudors, les Stewart et les Holah », automne-hiver 1986-1987

Estimation : 300 - 500 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 20/06/2023

A BodyMap hand-knitted jacket, probably ’Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature’s Cosmic Curves’ collection, Spring-Summer 1985 handprint label, of turquoise and bright orange, with gilt bell buttons, ribbed peplum hem

Une veste tricotée à la main par BodyMap, probablement de la collection « Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature's Cosmic Curves », printemps-été 1985

Estimation : 350 - 500 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 06/12/2022

A BodyMap printed turquoise cotton jersey dress, probably ’Cat in the Hat ...’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1984-85 of turquoise and black Hilde Smith printed cotton jersey, ribbed edges and inserts to upper sleeves, neck edging to plunging back and cuffs to elongated sleeves, bust approx 92cm, 36in; together with a pair of matching striped leggings with frills (2)Michael Clark danced in BodyMap striped cotton jersey leggings from A/W 1984-85.

Robe en jersey de coton turquoise imprimé BodyMap, probablement collection « Le Chat chapeauté... », automne-hiver 1984-85

Estimation : 1500 - 2000 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 21/06/2022

A BodyMap hand-knitted jacket, probably ’Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature’s Cosmic Curves’ collection, Spring-Summer 1985 handprint label, of turquoise and bright orange, with gilt bell buttons, ribbed peplum hem

Une veste tricotée à la main par BodyMap, probablement de la collection « Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature's Cosmic Curves », printemps-été 1985

Estimation : 600 - 800 €

Maison de vente : Kerry Taylor

Date de la vente : 21/06/2022