A Junya Watanabe/Comme des Garçons ’puffer’ evening coat, ’Feathers & Air’ collection, Autumn-Winter 2009-10
Estimation $ - $
Vente le 08/12/2020
Matière soie, taffetas, synthétique, nylon, polyester
Couleur noir, jaune, or, vert, petit pois, blanc
Nom de la vente Passion for Fashion
Lot 292
Maison de vente Kerry Taylor
Pays Royaume-Uni
Description du catalogue
Look 42, labelled and size M, of black nylon taffeta with polyester padding and chunky gilt metal Chanel-esque chains, with hood, curved sleeves, the chains forming a frogging-like closure to the front chest
In his ’Feather & Air’ collection Watanabe took the ubiquitous, functional puffer jacket and transformed it into romantic contemporary garments including Poiret-esque cocoon coats, full-length evening gowns, capes, pea coats and peplum jackets.
Exhibited: ’Future Beaty’ 30 Years of Japanese Fashion, Barbican Centre 2010. A photograph of this garment is reproduced in the accompanying catalogue on p 60. It states,
’Despite functional overtones, the dramatic and romantic form of this coat makes it appear to be from a bygone era. Watanabe’s skilful play with the light-reflecting surfaces peculiar to synthetic fabrics confirms the garment as current and modern, however. When the collection was presented on the catwalk, the models emerged from the shadows, flashes of gold chain and one stark white blouse providing the only moments of disruption to the black on black collection.’
Images of this coat also appeared in Italian Vogue, October 2009, with a reproduction of a scrapbook by Lele Acquarone.
Sarah Mower writing for Vogue described the collection,
’Leave it to Junya Watanabe to take a generic utility garment—in this case, a chill-blocking down jacket—and elevate it to an incredible level of romantic imagination. "Feathers and air" were in his mind when he began work with the tubular components of a puffer and then started treating it to myriad turns of construction that lifted it far away from its casual origins.’