A bespoke BodyMap ensemble made for the Michael Clark Dance Co for a performance of ’our caca phoney H.our caca phoney H’, 1985

labelled, the black and white Hilde Smith print of winged zebras, stars and vegetation taken from ’Barbee Takes a Trip Around Nature’s Cosmic Curves’ A/W 1985-86, comprising: a tailcoat with ties to front waist, black faux-fur to underarms, looped black faux-fur bow to rear tails and black plaited streamers below, bust 86cm 34in; a loose printed cotton crop top; a one-side stretch lycra body with black frill above the pants section, single strap and black bandeau band; and a pair of matching stockings (5)

Provenance: The Mr Steven Philip Collection

For Michael Clark’s performance, our caca phoney H.our caca phoney H’ elements were taken from Trojan’s (Leigh Bowery’s lover) still-life compositions and cartoon-like illustrations to inspire the set and objects, such as bottles, crosses and chains, that were blown up as large inflatable props, carried by the dancers in their arms or across their backs. The costumes were designed by David Hollah and Stevie Stewart of BodyMap. The designs from ’Barbee Takes a Trip...’ were further embellished with fake fur..

Exhibited: Fashion & Textile Museum, ‘Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London’ 4th October 2024 -9th March 2025

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