Dial: silvered

Caliber: cal. 3135 automatic, 31 jewels

Movement number: 5’217’728

Case: stainless steel, screw down case back

Case number: L’252’903

Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 190 mm

Signed: case, dial, and movement

Box: no

Papers: yes

Accessories: Rolex Warranty stamped Tiffany & Co. (undated) and booklets

The Rolex Submariner is arguably one of, if not the most recognizable watch models in history since it joined Rolex’s lineup. While the Submariner is currently known as a luxury timepiece, they were originally designed to be tool watches that fulfilled a specific criteria in order to serve the wearer’s professional or recreational pursuits.

Created in 1953, the Submariner was the first wristwatch designed specifically for scuba diving. To capitalize on this new sport that at the time was quickly gaining popularity, Rolex dived deep into their waterproofing know-how and technological capabilities to create the first professional dive watch.

The first Submariner to feature a date complication was subsequently launched in 1967 as the Reference 1680, giving the Reference an appeal for everyday wear in addition to being a dive watch.

The Reference 16610 was launched by Rolex in 1988, and enjoyed a production run of 22 years until 2010. The present 16610 is one of the first pieces from the initial launch of the Reference dating to 1988, complete with lugholes and the ’Swiss T < 25’ at 6 o’clock. What makes the Reference 16610 especially interesting is how they mark a transition from vintage elements to the modern traits on timepieces that we are familiar today as you compare early 16610s from the late 80s to the examples from the 90s all the way to the 2000s.

In addition to being a cornerstone of Rolex design and innovation, the present example is further elevated as it features one of the most desirable double signed dials in watch collecting. Originally retailed by the prestigious American jeweler Tiffany & Company, the double signature on the dial is beautifully preserved and complimented by its original papers also bearing the retailer stamp.