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SUMMARY:suzanne-belperron - Date de vente : 08/12/2025
DESCRIPTION:Nom du lots : Suzanne Belperron\n\nDesigned as a fan\, the carv
 ed rock crystal decorated with old mine- and old European-cut diamonds\, F
 rench assay marks and maker’s mark for Groëné et Darde\; 1933-1937. Wi
 th signed box.\n\nAccompanied by Certificate of Authenticity no. 251007r b
 y Oliver Baroin dated October 7\, 2025 stating that Groëné et Darde manu
 factured the piece between 1933 and 1937.\n\nPatricia Corbett\, Ward Landr
 igan and Nico Landrigan\, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron\, London\, 2015\, p
 age 70 for an illustration of these clip-brooches.\n\nMany of Suzanne Belp
 erron’s most iconic creations feature transparent and translucent stone.
  She became renowned in the 1920s and ‘30s for her impressively-sized je
 wels incorporating massive yet ethereal carved rock crystal and subtly col
 ored chalcedony.  These can often seem as striking and modern today as t
 hey were when they were first made. Belperron worked closely with the tale
 nted lapidary Adrien Louart\, who supplied her with custom-carved rock cry
 stal and chalcedony to create cuff-bracelets\, rings\, brooches\, earclips
  and cufflinks. He developed a technique for setting gemstones directly i
 nto hardstones that allowed her to create novel combinations of materials.
  This collection includes ten jewels that feature carved rock crystal and
  chalcedony. Lots 42 and 53 are cuff bracelets carved from single pieces 
 of stone\, one of two-tone chalcedony set with a large amethyst cabochon a
 nd one of rock crystal set with diamonds. Lots 60 and 62 combine fan-sha
 ped rock crystal motifs with diamond accents. Two brooches\, lots 16 and 
 50\, employ angular rock crystal shapes while lot 15 has a stepped tubular
  form. Of particular note is lot 14\, a simple clip of carved rock crysta
 l that Suzanne Belperron chose to wear in her portrait by photographer Hor
 st P. Horst (reproduced on page 11).\n\nLocation courtesy of M. Olivier Ba
 roin\, Image #5.\n\nForever Modern\n\nSuzanne Belperron\n\nSuzanne Belperr
 on (1900-1983)\, née Vuillerme\, was born in the village of Saint-Claude 
 in the French Jura region to a family with ties to the area’s lapidary a
 nd watchmaking industries. Shortly after her birth\, Suzanne’s father t
 ook a position in Bésançon and it was here\, at the age of 16\, she bega
 n her training in watchmaking and jewelry decoration at the Écoles Munici
 pales de Musique et des Beaux-Arts. By this time her father had passed aw
 ay\, and it was therefore highly fortuitous that the school was not only f
 ree but open to female students. She showed a natural facility for design 
 and draftsmanship\, and her surviving designs from this period exhibit hin
 ts of the sculptural and geometric qualities of her later work. In 1919 s
 he moved to Paris where she was hired as a designer by the jewelry firm Re
 né Boivin. Founded in 1893\, the company was a prominent and successful 
 house known for its innovative designs and cultured clientele. Upon René
  Boivin’s death in 1917\, his widow Jeanne\, the sister of famed fashion
  designer Paul Poiret\, took over as director and went on to lead the hous
 e through some of its most influential and prosperous years.\n\nBelperron
 ’s experience at the company was to have a profound impact upon her care
 er. Madame Boivin served as the young designer’s mentor as her style an
 d position advanced within the firm\, elevating her to the role of co-dire
 ctor in 1924. The house’s tendency to eschew advertising and its avoida
 nce of adding signatures—instead relying upon word-of-mouth and loyalty 
 to attract customers—are practices Belperron continued throughout her li
 fe. The Legacy of Elegance collection includes two jewels created during 
 Suzanne Belperron’s years at René Boivin. Lots 15 and 16\, two carved 
 rock crystal and diamond brooches made as early as 1928\, are masterful ex
 amples of Belperron’s work that incorporate the volume\, geometry and tr
 anslucency she would revisit throughout her career.\n\nIn 1932 Suzanne lef
 t René Boivin and began a collaboration with noted gemstone and pearl dea
 ler Bernard Herz. Belperron became the sole designer and director for the
  newly formed Maison Herz. The two opened a private salon on Rue de Châte
 audun that quickly began to attract discerning and prominent clients. Gro
 ëné & Darde\, a jewelry workshop owned by Maurice Groëné and Émile Da
 rde with whom she had worked while at René Boivin\, became her dedicated 
 manufacturers. Belperron’s jewels became constant fixtures in the fashi
 on press during the 1930s\, appearing frequently in publications such as V
 ogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Sometimes the jewels were attributed to Maiso
 n Herz\, but she was often credited as their designer\, an unprecedented d
 egree of recognition for a woman in the industry at that time. Always ext
 remely stylish and traveling in sophisticated circles\, she sometimes appe
 ared in the contemporary fashion press alongside her creations. Her high-
 profile clients included some of the most celebrated figures of the era\, 
 including Daisy Fellowes\, Mona Bismarck\, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor
 \, Ganna Walska\, Princess Agha Khan\, Adele Astaire and Diana Vreeland. 
 Despite her prominence\, she continued to decline to sign her jewelry\, ex
 plaining\, “My style is my signature.”\n\nThe year 1941 brought traged
 y to the firm when it was confiscated by the occupying Nazi government due
  to Bernard Herz’s Jewish origins. Belperron purchased the company hers
 elf\, with Herz’s assistance\, renaming it Suzanne Belperron. In 1943\,
  to her horror\, Bernard Herz was deported to Auschwitz and killed. When 
 Jean\, Bernard’s son\, was released from captivity in 1946\, she offered
  to return the company to the Herz family. In appreciation of her steward
 ship throughout the war and her indispensable talent\, Jean offered her a 
 partnership\, and the firm was renamed Herz-Belperron. It continued to at
 tract a loyal clientele in the post-war years\, adapting to changing style
 s. In 1963 Belperron was made a knight of the Legion of Honor for her con
 tributions to French jewelry design and manufacturing. She decided to ret
 ire in 1975\, though she continued to work on occasional projects until he
 r death in 1983.\n\nIn the late 1980s\, the heirs to the Maison Herz-Belpe
 rron sought a custodian who would preserve Belperron’s legacy with the s
 ame integrity that characterized her career. They approached Ward Landriga
 n—then owner of Verdura and formerly head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Departm
 ent in New York—who had gained international recognition for his careful
  stewardship of the Verdura archives. In 1999\, Landrigan acquired the ri
 ghts to the Belperron brand as well as an extensive archive of over 9\,300
  gouache designs and tracings\, wax models\, molds and inventory books. Th
 ese materials not only document her remarkable career and act as a critica
 l resource in authenticating her original creations\, but also serve as th
 e creative foundation for each jewel produced today. As the steward of the
  House of Belperron\, Nico Landrigan works with collectors and museums au
 thenticating the original work of Suzanne Belperron. The company lives on 
 in a beautiful salon located at 745 Fifth Avenue in New York City\, model
 ed on Suzanne Belperron’s own Paris apartment.\n\nWhile other jewelry ho
 uses have produced jewels that fall in-and-out of fashion\, the designs of
  Suzanne Belperron never look dated. For more than one hundred years\, he
 r signature style has never lost its edge.
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