BEGIN:VCALENDAR PRODID:-//eluceo/ical//2.0/EN VERSION:2.0 CALSCALE:GREGORIAN BEGIN:VEVENT UID:ccb6d0ead42a8ce9af8ce7d1a68a4eba DTSTAMP:20260404T080616Z SUMMARY:suzanne-belperron - Date de vente : 08/12/2025 DESCRIPTION:Nom du lots : Suzanne Belperron\n\nOf geometric design\, the ca rved rock crystal centering an onyx square bezel set with old European-cut diamonds and featuring a button-shaped pearl\, framed by rose-cut diamond s\, with black lacquer and onyx detailing\, with French assay marks and wo rkshop marks for Groëné et Darde\; circa 1935\n\nAccompanied by Certific ate of Authenticity no. 251007y by Oliver Baroin dated October 7\, 2025 st ating that Groëné et Darde manufactured the piece circa 1935.\n\nPlease note that the pearl has not been tested for natural origin.\n\nSylvie Raul et and Olivier Baroin\, Suzanne Belperron\, Woodbridge\, 2011\, p. 63 fo r the design of a similar clip dated between 1932 and 1939.\n\nPatricia Co rbett\, Ward Landrigan and Nico Landrigan\, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron\ , London\, 2015\, p. 60 for a similar clip originally in the collection o f Mrs William Paley.\n\nMany of Suzanne Belperron’s most iconic creation s feature transparent and translucent stone. She became renowned in the 19 20s and ‘30s for her impressively-sized jewels incorporating massive yet ethereal carved rock crystal and subtly colored chalcedony.  These can often seem as striking and modern today as they were when they were first made. Belperron worked closely with the talented lapidary Adrien Louart\, who supplied her with custom-carved rock crystal and chalcedony to create cuff-bracelets\, rings\, brooches\, earclips and cufflinks. He developed a technique for setting gemstones directly into hardstones that allowed he r to create novel combinations of materials. This collection includes ten jewels that feature carved rock crystal and chalcedony. Lots 42 and 53 a re cuff bracelets carved from single pieces of stone\, one of two-tone cha lcedony set with a large amethyst cabochon and one of rock crystal set wit h diamonds. Lots 60 and 62 combine fan-shaped rock crystal motifs with d iamond accents. Two brooches\, lots 16 and 50\, employ angular rock cryst al shapes while lot 15 has a stepped tubular form. Of particular note is lot 14\, a simple clip of carved rock crystal that Suzanne Belperron chose to wear in her portrait by photographer Horst P. Horst (reproduced on pag e 11).\n\nLocation courtesy of M. Olivier Baroin\, Image #3.\n\nForever Mo dern\n\nSuzanne Belperron\n\nSuzanne Belperron (1900-1983)\, née Vuillerm e\, was born in the village of Saint-Claude in the French Jura region to a family with ties to the area’s lapidary and watchmaking industries. Sh ortly after her birth\, Suzanne’s father took a position in Bésançon a nd it was here\, at the age of 16\, she began her training in watchmaking and jewelry decoration at the Écoles Municipales de Musique et des Beaux- Arts. By this time her father had passed away\, and it was therefore high ly fortuitous that the school was not only free but open to female student s. She showed a natural facility for design and draftsmanship\, and her su rviving designs from this period exhibit hints of the sculptural and geome tric qualities of her later work. In 1919 she moved to Paris where she wa s hired as a designer by the jewelry firm René Boivin. Founded in 1893\, the company was a prominent and successful house known for its innovative designs and cultured clientele. Upon René Boivin’s death in 1917\, hi s widow Jeanne\, the sister of famed fashion designer Paul Poiret\, took o ver as director and went on to lead the house through some of its most inf luential and prosperous years.\n\nBelperron’s experience at the company was to have a profound impact upon her career. Madame Boivin served as th e young designer’s mentor as her style and position advanced within the firm\, elevating her to the role of co-director in 1924. The house’s te ndency to eschew advertising and its avoidance of adding signatures—inst ead relying upon word-of-mouth and loyalty to attract customers—are prac tices Belperron continued throughout her life. The Legacy of Elegance col lection includes two jewels created during Suzanne Belperron’s years at René Boivin. Lots 15 and 16\, two carved rock crystal and diamond brooch es made as early as 1928\, are masterful examples of Belperron’s work th at incorporate the volume\, geometry and translucency she would revisit th roughout her career.\n\nIn 1932 Suzanne left René Boivin and began a coll aboration with noted gemstone and pearl dealer Bernard Herz. Belperron be came the sole designer and director for the newly formed Maison Herz. The two opened a private salon on Rue de Châteaudun that quickly began to att ract discerning and prominent clients. Groëné & Darde\, a jewelry works hop owned by Maurice Groëné and Émile Darde with whom she had worked wh ile at René Boivin\, became her dedicated manufacturers. Belperron’s j ewels became constant fixtures in the fashion press during the 1930s\, app earing frequently in publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. So metimes the jewels were attributed to Maison Herz\, but she was often cred ited as their designer\, an unprecedented degree of recognition for a woma n in the industry at that time. Always extremely stylish and traveling in sophisticated circles\, she sometimes appeared in the contemporary fashio n press alongside her creations. Her high-profile clients included some o f the most celebrated figures of the era\, including Daisy Fellowes\, Mona Bismarck\, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor\, Ganna Walska\, Princess Agha Khan\, Adele Astaire and Diana Vreeland. Despite her prominence\, she co ntinued to decline to sign her jewelry\, explaining\, “My style is my si gnature.”\n\nThe year 1941 brought tragedy to the firm when it was confi scated by the occupying Nazi government due to Bernard Herz’s Jewish ori gins. Belperron purchased the company herself\, with Herz’s assistance\ , renaming it Suzanne Belperron. In 1943\, to her horror\, Bernard Herz w as deported to Auschwitz and killed. When Jean\, Bernard’s son\, was re leased from captivity in 1946\, she offered to return the company to the H erz family. In appreciation of her stewardship throughout the war and her indispensable talent\, Jean offered her a partnership\, and the firm was renamed Herz-Belperron. It continued to attract a loyal clientele in the post-war years\, adapting to changing styles. In 1963 Belperron was made a knight of the Legion of Honor for her contributions to French jewelry de sign and manufacturing. She decided to retire in 1975\, though she contin ued to work on occasional projects until her death in 1983.\n\nIn the late 1980s\, the heirs to the Maison Herz-Belperron sought a custodian who wou ld preserve Belperron’s legacy with the same integrity that characterize d her career. They approached Ward Landrigan—then owner of Verdura and f ormerly head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York—who had gaine d international recognition for his careful stewardship of the Verdura arc hives. In 1999\, Landrigan acquired the rights to the Belperron brand as well as an extensive archive of over 9\,300 gouache designs and tracings\, wax models\, molds and inventory books. These materials not only document her remarkable career and act as a critical resource in authenticating he r original creations\, but also serve as the creative foundation for each jewel produced today. As the steward of the House of Belperron\, Nico Land rigan works with collectors and museums authenticating the original work of Suzanne Belperron. The company lives on in a beautiful salon located at  745 Fifth Avenue in New York City\, modeled on Suzanne Belperron’s own Paris apartment.\n\nWhile other jewelry houses have produced jewels that fall in-and-out of fashion\, the designs of Suzanne Belperron never look d ated. For more than one hundred years\, her signature style has never los t its edge. DTSTART;VALUE=DATE:20251208 END:VEVENT END:VCALENDAR