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SUMMARY:ren-boivin - Date de vente : 08/12/2025
DESCRIPTION:Nom du lots : René Boivin\n\nDesigned as a stylized pomegranat
 e featuring a cushion-shaped\, foil-backed faceted sapphire\, accented by 
 pear-shaped\, old mine-\, single- and rose-cut diamonds\, within a polishe
 d gold frame\, with French assay marks and maker’s mark\; 1937.\n\nAccom
 panied by René Boivin Certificate of Authenticity dated October 24\, 2025
  stating that the piece was manufactured by René Boivin in June 1937 afte
 r a drawing by Juliette Moutard.\n\nDaisy Fellowes (1890-1962)\n\nMagnific
 ent Jewels\, Sotheby’s Geneva\, 17 November 2009\, lot 389.\n\nStefano P
 api and Alexandra Rhodes\, 20th Century Jewelry and The Icons of Style\, 
 London\, 2013\, p. 108 for this brooch.\n\nStefano Papi and Alexandra Rhod
 es\, Famous Jewelry Collectors\, London\, 1999\, p. 165 for this brooch.
 \n\nFrançoise Cailles\, René Boivin Joailliers\, Paris\, 1994\, p. 267 f
 or a design drawing of a similar brooch dated to 1940 and p. 240 for a bro
 och of similar design set with an amethyst.\n\nDaisy Fellowes (1890-1962)\
 n\nDaisy Fellowes was a French socialite\, fashion editor for Harper’s B
 azaar\, author and tastemaker who is considered one of the most influentia
 l jewelery collectors of the 20th century. Her collection included corners
 tones of jewelery design such as her legendary Cartier ’Tutti Frutti’ 
 necklace\, a pair of Art Deco emerald bead and diamond bracelets by Van Cl
 eef & Arpels and numerous important jewels by René Boivin and Suzanne Bel
 perron.\n\nShe was born Marguerite Séverine Philippine Decazes de Glücks
 berg\, the daughter of the third Duke of Decazes. Through her mother\, Isa
 belle-Blanche Singer (1869–1896)\, she was a granddaughter of Isaac Sing
 er. His invention\, the Singer sewing machine\, greatly accelerated the ge
 neral public’s ability to participate in changing fashion trends. After 
 her mother passed away prematurely\, she and her siblings were raised by t
 heir aunt Winnaretta Singer\, Princess of Polignac (1865-1943)\, herself a
  renowned patron of the arts with a great interest in impressionistic musi
 c. In 1910\, at the tender age of twenty\, she married the Prince Jean de 
 Broglie\, a scion of one of France’s oldest noble houses.\n\nIn 1919\, a
 fter her first husband had passed away\, she married the Honourable Regina
 ld Ailwyn Fellowes (1884-1953)\, a banker who was related to Winston Churc
 hill. At this time she adopted the name Daisy Fellowes\, Daisy being the E
 nglish for Marguerite. Further than just changing her name she sought to r
 e-invent herself as a living work of art after feeling decidedly repulsed 
 upon seeing a bland and unremarkable portrait depicting her as everything 
 she did not wish to be. She underwent a rhinoplasty\, supposedly without a
 nesthesia\, and was dressed only by the best Parisian couturiers in highly
  original and sometimes controversial styles. Her witticisms\, at times ve
 ering toward the outlandish and cruel\, contributed to her reputation as "
 the most wicked woman in high society."\n\nDaisy Fellowes loved planning s
 triking outfits around her exquisite\, sometimes unconventional jewels. Sh
 e had a particularly good relationship with surrealist designer Elsa Schia
 parelli who created the color ’shocking pink’ for her. In fact\, this 
 color was inspired by a historical 17.27-carat colored diamond called the 
 ‘Ram’s Head’ which Fellowes purchased at Cartier. The diamond had a 
 provenance going back to Catherine the Great and the Princes Youssoupov. U
 nfortunately\, it was stolen in 1939. The magnum opus of her collection wa
 s her 1936 Cartier ’Tutti Frutti’ necklace. It is now part of the Cart
 ier Collection and stands as one of the most influential jewels of the 20t
 h century\, even though it was substantially altered in the 1960s. In the 
 1950s\, she commissioned a sapphire and diamond panther brooch from Cartie
 r inspired by the lamb skin of the Order of the Golden Fleece. Though the 
 panther is often associated with the Duchess of Windsor\, her contemporary
  and good friend\, this very brooch forms the template for many subsequent
  panther pieces. She was also an early supporter of Fulco di Verdura and J
 ean Schlumberger.\n\nIn Jeanne Boivin and her former protégée Suzanne Be
 lperron\, Daisy Fellowes found kindred spirits in her quest for original a
 nd fashion-forward jewels. From Boivin\, she commissioned several extraord
 inary brooches including a large pigeon’s wing set with buff-top sapphir
 es\, an exuberant gem-set butterfly\, a ruby and diamond orchid and this s
 tylish ’grenade’ brooch centering a large foiled sapphire dated to 194
 0. This was one of the earliest grenade brooches Boivin created\, and the 
 firm was to reinterpret it several times over the following decades.
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