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SUMMARY:suzanne-belperron - Date de vente : 08/12/2025
DESCRIPTION:Nom du lots : Suzanne Belperron\n\nThe clip-brooch of cluster d
 esign set with oval- and pear-shaped aquamarines and round and pear-shaped
  sapphires\, the ring centering an emerald-cut aquamarine accented by roun
 d aquamarines and pear-shaped sapphires\, size 5½\, with French assay mar
 ks and workshop marks for Darde et Fils\; 1965. With a fitted box.\n\nAcco
 mpanied by Certificate of Authenticity no. 251007h dated October 7\, 20 by
  Oliver Baroin 25 stating that Darde et Fils manufactured the clip-brooch 
 in January 1965.\n\nAccompanied by Certificate of Authenticity no. 251007i
  by Oliver Baroin dated October 7\, 2025 stating that Darde et Fils manufa
 ctured the ring in January 1965.\n\nSylvie Raulet and Olivier Baroin\, Suz
 anne Belperron\, Woodbridge\, 2011\, pp. 141-42 for an illustration of the
 se pieces.\n\nForever Modern\n\nSuzanne Belperron\n\nSuzanne Belperron (19
 00-1983)\, née Vuillerme\, was born in the village of Saint-Claude in the
  French Jura region to a family with ties to the area’s lapidary and wat
 chmaking industries. Shortly after her birth\, Suzanne’s father took a 
 position in Bésançon and it was here\, at the age of 16\, she began her 
 training in watchmaking and jewelry decoration at the Écoles Municipales 
 de Musique et des Beaux-Arts. By this time her father had passed away\, a
 nd it was therefore highly fortuitous that the school was not only free bu
 t open to female students. She showed a natural facility for design and dr
 aftsmanship\, and her surviving designs from this period exhibit hints of 
 the sculptural and geometric qualities of her later work. In 1919 she mov
 ed to Paris where she was hired as a designer by the jewelry firm René Bo
 ivin. Founded in 1893\, the company was a prominent and successful house 
 known for its innovative designs and cultured clientele. Upon René Boivi
 n’s death in 1917\, his widow Jeanne\, the sister of famed fashion desig
 ner Paul Poiret\, took over as director and went on to lead the house thro
 ugh some of its most influential and prosperous years.\n\nBelperron’s ex
 perience at the company was to have a profound impact upon her career. Ma
 dame Boivin served as the young designer’s mentor as her style and posit
 ion advanced within the firm\, elevating her to the role of co-director in
  1924. The house’s tendency to eschew advertising and its avoidance of 
 adding signatures—instead relying upon word-of-mouth and loyalty to attr
 act customers—are practices Belperron continued throughout her life. Th
 e Legacy of Elegance collection includes two jewels created during Suzanne
  Belperron’s years at René Boivin. Lots 15 and 16\, two carved rock cr
 ystal and diamond brooches made as early as 1928\, are masterful examples 
 of Belperron’s work that incorporate the volume\, geometry and transluce
 ncy she would revisit throughout her career.\n\nIn 1932 Suzanne left René
  Boivin and began a collaboration with noted gemstone and pearl dealer Ber
 nard Herz. Belperron became the sole designer and director for the newly 
 formed Maison Herz. The two opened a private salon on Rue de Châteaudun t
 hat quickly began to attract discerning and prominent clients. Groëné &
  Darde\, a jewelry workshop owned by Maurice Groëné and Émile Darde wit
 h whom she had worked while at René Boivin\, became her dedicated manufac
 turers. Belperron’s jewels became constant fixtures in the fashion pres
 s during the 1930s\, appearing frequently in publications such as Vogue an
 d Harper’s Bazaar. Sometimes the jewels were attributed to Maison Herz\
 , but she was often credited as their designer\, an unprecedented degree o
 f recognition for a woman in the industry at that time. Always extremely 
 stylish and traveling in sophisticated circles\, she sometimes appeared in
  the contemporary fashion press alongside her creations. Her high-profile
  clients included some of the most celebrated figures of the era\, includi
 ng Daisy Fellowes\, Mona Bismarck\, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor\, Gann
 a Walska\, Princess Agha Khan\, Adele Astaire and Diana Vreeland. Despite
  her prominence\, she continued to decline to sign her jewelry\, explainin
 g\, “My style is my signature.”\n\nThe year 1941 brought tragedy to th
 e firm when it was confiscated by the occupying Nazi government due to Ber
 nard Herz’s Jewish origins. Belperron purchased the company herself\, w
 ith Herz’s assistance\, renaming it Suzanne Belperron. In 1943\, to her
  horror\, Bernard Herz was deported to Auschwitz and killed. When Jean\, 
 Bernard’s son\, was released from captivity in 1946\, she offered to ret
 urn the company to the Herz family. In appreciation of her stewardship th
 roughout the war and her indispensable talent\, Jean offered her a partner
 ship\, and the firm was renamed Herz-Belperron. It continued to attract a
  loyal clientele in the post-war years\, adapting to changing styles. In 
 1963 Belperron was made a knight of the Legion of Honor for her contributi
 ons to French jewelry design and manufacturing. She decided to retire in 
 1975\, though she continued to work on occasional projects until her death
  in 1983.\n\nIn the late 1980s\, the heirs to the Maison Herz-Belperron so
 ught a custodian who would preserve Belperron’s legacy with the same int
 egrity that characterized her career. They approached Ward Landrigan—the
 n owner of Verdura and formerly head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in 
 New York—who had gained international recognition for his careful stewar
 dship of the Verdura archives. In 1999\, Landrigan acquired the rights to
  the Belperron brand as well as an extensive archive of over 9\,300 gouach
 e designs and tracings\, wax models\, molds and inventory books. These mat
 erials not only document her remarkable career and act as a critical resou
 rce in authenticating her original creations\, but also serve as the creat
 ive foundation for each jewel produced today. As the steward of the House 
 of Belperron\, Nico Landrigan works with collectors and museums authentic
 ating the original work of Suzanne Belperron. The company lives on in a be
 autiful salon located at 745 Fifth Avenue in New York City\, modeled on S
 uzanne Belperron’s own Paris apartment.\n\nWhile other jewelry houses ha
 ve produced jewels that fall in-and-out of fashion\, the designs of Suzann
 e Belperron never look dated. For more than one hundred years\, her signa
 ture style has never lost its edge.
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