BEGIN:VCALENDAR PRODID:-//eluceo/ical//2.0/EN VERSION:2.0 CALSCALE:GREGORIAN BEGIN:VEVENT UID:a3f88cc893b76b35ed5a4195c00c2a68 DTSTAMP:20260404T062703Z SUMMARY:suzanne-belperron - Date de vente : 08/12/2025 DESCRIPTION:Nom du lots : Suzanne Belperron\n\nOf carved two-tone chalcedon y set with a round amethyst cabochon\, internal circumference approximatel y 5¾ inches\; circa 1935. With box signed B. Herz.\n\nAccompanied by Cert ificate of Authenticity by Oliver Baroin dated October 7\, 2025 stating th at the piece was manufactured circa 1935.\n\nPatricia Corbett\, Ward Landr igan and Nico Landrigan\, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron\, London\, 2015\, p . 23 for an illustration of this cuff-bracelet.\n\nSylvie Raulet and Olivi er Baroin\, Suzanne Belperron\, Lausanne\, 2011\, p. 80 for a photograph o f the bracelet as part of a parure from French Vogue in March 1935 and p. 287 for a photograph of a similar cuff-bracelet set with a pearl from Brit ish Vogue in 1936.\n\nBijoux Art Déco et Avant-Garde\, Les Arts Decoratif s\, Norma Editions\, Paris\, 2009\, p. 80 for the same photograph of the b racelet from French Vogue.\n\nMany of Suzanne Belperron’s most iconic cr eations feature transparent and translucent stone. She became renowned in the 1920s and ‘30s for her impressively-sized jewels incorporating massi ve yet ethereal carved rock crystal and subtly colored chalcedony.  Thes e can often seem as striking and modern today as they were when they were first made. Belperron worked closely with the talented lapidary Adrien Lou art\, who supplied her with custom-carved rock crystal and chalcedony to c reate cuff-bracelets\, rings\, brooches\, earclips and cufflinks. He deve loped a technique for setting gemstones directly into hardstones that allo wed her to create novel combinations of materials. This collection includ es ten jewels that feature carved rock crystal and chalcedony. Lots 42 an d 53 are cuff bracelets carved from single pieces of stone\, one of two-to ne chalcedony set with a large amethyst cabochon and one of rock crystal s et with diamonds. Lots 60 and 62 combine fan-shaped rock crystal motifs with diamond accents. Two brooches\, lots 16 and 50\, employ angular rock crystal shapes while lot 15 has a stepped tubular form. Of particular no te is lot 14\, a simple clip of carved rock crystal that Suzanne Belperron chose to wear in her portrait by photographer Horst P. Horst (reproduced on page 11).\n\nLocation courtesy of M. Olivier Baroin\, Image #5.\n\nFore ver Modern\n\nSuzanne Belperron\n\nSuzanne Belperron (1900-1983)\, née Vu illerme\, was born in the village of Saint-Claude in the French Jura regio n to a family with ties to the area’s lapidary and watchmaking industrie s. Shortly after her birth\, Suzanne’s father took a position in Bésan çon and it was here\, at the age of 16\, she began her training in watchm aking and jewelry decoration at the Écoles Municipales de Musique et des Beaux-Arts. By this time her father had passed away\, and it was therefor e highly fortuitous that the school was not only free but open to female s tudents. She showed a natural facility for design and draftsmanship\, and her surviving designs from this period exhibit hints of the sculptural and geometric qualities of her later work. In 1919 she moved to Paris where she was hired as a designer by the jewelry firm René Boivin. Founded in 1893\, the company was a prominent and successful house known for its inno vative designs and cultured clientele. Upon René Boivin’s death in 191 7\, his widow Jeanne\, the sister of famed fashion designer Paul Poiret\, took over as director and went on to lead the house through some of its mo st influential and prosperous years.\n\nBelperron’s experience at the co mpany was to have a profound impact upon her career. Madame Boivin served as the young designer’s mentor as her style and position advanced withi n the firm\, elevating her to the role of co-director in 1924. The house ’s tendency to eschew advertising and its avoidance of adding signatures —instead relying upon word-of-mouth and loyalty to attract customers—a re practices Belperron continued throughout her life. The Legacy of Elega nce collection includes two jewels created during Suzanne Belperron’s ye ars at René Boivin. Lots 15 and 16\, two carved rock crystal and diamond brooches made as early as 1928\, are masterful examples of Belperron’s work that incorporate the volume\, geometry and translucency she would rev isit throughout her career.\n\nIn 1932 Suzanne left René Boivin and began a collaboration with noted gemstone and pearl dealer Bernard Herz. Belpe rron became the sole designer and director for the newly formed Maison Her z. The two opened a private salon on Rue de Châteaudun that quickly began to attract discerning and prominent clients. Groëné & Darde\, a jewelr y workshop owned by Maurice Groëné and Émile Darde with whom she had wo rked while at René Boivin\, became her dedicated manufacturers. Belperro n’s jewels became constant fixtures in the fashion press during the 1930 s\, appearing frequently in publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Baza ar. Sometimes the jewels were attributed to Maison Herz\, but she was oft en credited as their designer\, an unprecedented degree of recognition for a woman in the industry at that time. Always extremely stylish and trave ling in sophisticated circles\, she sometimes appeared in the contemporary fashion press alongside her creations. Her high-profile clients included some of the most celebrated figures of the era\, including Daisy Fellowes \, Mona Bismarck\, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor\, Ganna Walska\, Prince ss Agha Khan\, Adele Astaire and Diana Vreeland. Despite her prominence\, she continued to decline to sign her jewelry\, explaining\, “My style i s my signature.”\n\nThe year 1941 brought tragedy to the firm when it wa s confiscated by the occupying Nazi government due to Bernard Herz’s Jew ish origins. Belperron purchased the company herself\, with Herz’s assi stance\, renaming it Suzanne Belperron. In 1943\, to her horror\, Bernard Herz was deported to Auschwitz and killed. When Jean\, Bernard’s son\, was released from captivity in 1946\, she offered to return the company t o the Herz family. In appreciation of her stewardship throughout the war and her indispensable talent\, Jean offered her a partnership\, and the fi rm was renamed Herz-Belperron. It continued to attract a loyal clientele in the post-war years\, adapting to changing styles. In 1963 Belperron wa s made a knight of the Legion of Honor for her contributions to French jew elry design and manufacturing. She decided to retire in 1975\, though she continued to work on occasional projects until her death in 1983.\n\nIn t he late 1980s\, the heirs to the Maison Herz-Belperron sought a custodian who would preserve Belperron’s legacy with the same integrity that chara cterized her career. They approached Ward Landrigan—then owner of Verdur a and formerly head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York—who ha d gained international recognition for his careful stewardship of the Verd ura archives. In 1999\, Landrigan acquired the rights to the Belperron br and as well as an extensive archive of over 9\,300 gouache designs and tra cings\, wax models\, molds and inventory books. These materials not only d ocument her remarkable career and act as a critical resource in authentica ting her original creations\, but also serve as the creative foundation fo r each jewel produced today. As the steward of the House of Belperron\, Ni co Landrigan works with collectors and museums authenticating the origina l work of Suzanne Belperron. The company lives on in a beautiful salon loc ated at 745 Fifth Avenue in New York City\, modeled on Suzanne Belperron ’s own Paris apartment.\n\nWhile other jewelry houses have produced jewe ls that fall in-and-out of fashion\, the designs of Suzanne Belperron neve r look dated. For more than one hundred years\, her signature style has n ever lost its edge. DTSTART;VALUE=DATE:20251208 END:VEVENT END:VCALENDAR