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SUMMARY:ren-boivin - Date de vente : 08/12/2025
DESCRIPTION:Nom du lots : René Boivin\n\nOf bombé design\, decorated with
  a scale motif set with old European-cut diamonds surmounted by tiers of r
 ound and old European-cut diamonds\, unsigned\, with French assay marks\; 
 1940.\n\nAccompanied by René Boivin Certificate of Authenticity no. 20251
 0YPE dated October 24\, 2025 stating that the piece was manufactured by Re
 né Boivin in 1940 after a drawing by Suzanne Belperron.\n\nPatricia Corbe
 tt\, Ward Landrigan and Nico Landrigan\, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron\, Lo
 ndon\, 2015\, p. 36 for an illustration of this clip.\n\nForever Modern\n\
 nSuzanne Belperron\n\nSuzanne Belperron (1900-1983)\, née Vuillerme\, was
  born in the village of Saint-Claude in the French Jura region to a family
  with ties to the area’s lapidary and watchmaking industries. Shortly a
 fter her birth\, Suzanne’s father took a position in Bésançon and it w
 as here\, at the age of 16\, she began her training in watchmaking and jew
 elry decoration at the Écoles Municipales de Musique et des Beaux-Arts. 
 By this time her father had passed away\, and it was therefore highly fort
 uitous that the school was not only free but open to female students. She 
 showed a natural facility for design and draftsmanship\, and her surviving
  designs from this period exhibit hints of the sculptural and geometric qu
 alities of her later work. In 1919 she moved to Paris where she was hired
  as a designer by the jewelry firm René Boivin. Founded in 1893\, the co
 mpany was a prominent and successful house known for its innovative design
 s and cultured clientele. Upon René Boivin’s death in 1917\, his widow
  Jeanne\, the sister of famed fashion designer Paul Poiret\, took over as 
 director and went on to lead the house through some of its most influentia
 l and prosperous years.\n\nBelperron’s experience at the company was to 
 have a profound impact upon her career. Madame Boivin served as the young
  designer’s mentor as her style and position advanced within the firm\, 
 elevating her to the role of co-director in 1924. The house’s tendency 
 to eschew advertising and its avoidance of adding signatures—instead rel
 ying upon word-of-mouth and loyalty to attract customers—are practices B
 elperron continued throughout her life. The Legacy of Elegance collection
  includes two jewels created during Suzanne Belperron’s years at René B
 oivin. Lots 15 and 16\, two carved rock crystal and diamond brooches made
  as early as 1928\, are masterful examples of Belperron’s work that inco
 rporate the volume\, geometry and translucency she would revisit throughou
 t her career.\n\nIn 1932 Suzanne left René Boivin and began a collaborati
 on with noted gemstone and pearl dealer Bernard Herz. Belperron became th
 e sole designer and director for the newly formed Maison Herz. The two ope
 ned a private salon on Rue de Châteaudun that quickly began to attract di
 scerning and prominent clients. Groëné & Darde\, a jewelry workshop own
 ed by Maurice Groëné and Émile Darde with whom she had worked while at 
 René Boivin\, became her dedicated manufacturers. Belperron’s jewels b
 ecame constant fixtures in the fashion press during the 1930s\, appearing 
 frequently in publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Sometimes
  the jewels were attributed to Maison Herz\, but she was often credited as
  their designer\, an unprecedented degree of recognition for a woman in th
 e industry at that time. Always extremely stylish and traveling in sophis
 ticated circles\, she sometimes appeared in the contemporary fashion press
  alongside her creations. Her high-profile clients included some of the m
 ost celebrated figures of the era\, including Daisy Fellowes\, Mona Bismar
 ck\, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor\, Ganna Walska\, Princess Agha Khan\,
  Adele Astaire and Diana Vreeland. Despite her prominence\, she continued
  to decline to sign her jewelry\, explaining\, “My style is my signature
 .”\n\nThe year 1941 brought tragedy to the firm when it was confiscated 
 by the occupying Nazi government due to Bernard Herz’s Jewish origins. 
 Belperron purchased the company herself\, with Herz’s assistance\, renam
 ing it Suzanne Belperron. In 1943\, to her horror\, Bernard Herz was depo
 rted to Auschwitz and killed. When Jean\, Bernard’s son\, was released 
 from captivity in 1946\, she offered to return the company to the Herz fam
 ily. In appreciation of her stewardship throughout the war and her indisp
 ensable talent\, Jean offered her a partnership\, and the firm was renamed
  Herz-Belperron. It continued to attract a loyal clientele in the post-wa
 r years\, adapting to changing styles. In 1963 Belperron was made a knigh
 t of the Legion of Honor for her contributions to French jewelry design an
 d manufacturing. She decided to retire in 1975\, though she continued to 
 work on occasional projects until her death in 1983.\n\nIn the late 1980s\
 , the heirs to the Maison Herz-Belperron sought a custodian who would pres
 erve Belperron’s legacy with the same integrity that characterized her c
 areer. They approached Ward Landrigan—then owner of Verdura and formerly
  head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York—who had gained inter
 national recognition for his careful stewardship of the Verdura archives.
  In 1999\, Landrigan acquired the rights to the Belperron brand as well a
 s an extensive archive of over 9\,300 gouache designs and tracings\, wax m
 odels\, molds and inventory books. These materials not only document her r
 emarkable career and act as a critical resource in authenticating her orig
 inal creations\, but also serve as the creative foundation for each jewel 
 produced today. As the steward of the House of Belperron\, Nico Landrigan 
 works with collectors and museums authenticating the original work of Suz
 anne Belperron. The company lives on in a beautiful salon located at 745 
 Fifth Avenue in New York City\, modeled on Suzanne Belperron’s own Paris
  apartment.\n\nWhile other jewelry houses have produced jewels that fall i
 n-and-out of fashion\, the designs of Suzanne Belperron never look dated.
  For more than one hundred years\, her signature style has never lost its
  edge.
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