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DTSTAMP:20260404T080513Z
SUMMARY:van-cleef-arpels - Date de vente : 08/12/2025
DESCRIPTION:Nom du lots : Van Cleef & Arpels\n\nOf scroll design\, set with
  oval and cushion-cut rubies\, embellished with baguette and pavé-set old
  European-cut diamonds\, unsigned\, with French assay marks\; circa 1937.\
 n\nAccompanied by AGL report 1150704 dated September 2\, 2025 stating that
  over 50% of the rubies tested at random are of Burmese origin\, with no i
 ndications of heating.\n\nThis ruby and diamond clip-brooch is featured in
  an advertisement\, published in  Vogue Paris in 1937\, where it is disp
 layed amongst ruby and diamond mystery-set jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels. T
 hough unsigned\, the brooch is indicative of Van Cleef & Arpels’ stylist
 ic evolution during the mid-to-late 1930s. At the time\, jewelry design wa
 s moving away from the geometric art deco style to a bold and sculptural a
 esthetic that would stay in vogue until the mid-1950s.\n\nThe brooch’s l
 arge scale\, rounded contours and generous use of cushion-shaped rubies\, 
 bring to mind Van Cleef & Arpels’ most emblematic creation of 1937: the 
 ’Wedding Contract’ bracelet commissioned by the Duke of Windsor. To co
 mmemorate the signing of their wedding contract\, the former King Edward V
 III gave his bride-to-be Mrs Simpson a sumptuous bracelet of jarretière
  design composed of a buckle set with cushion-shaped sapphires on an arti
 culated strap of round diamonds\, accented by baguette diamonds. Though si
 gning a wedding contract may seem purely pragmatic to most couples\, for t
 hem it was a significant milestone in their complicated relationship that 
 warranted a jewel reflecting its importance. The bracelet was touchingly i
 nscribed ‘For our contract 18-V-37’. A few weeks later\, on June 3\, 1
 937\, the Duchess of Windsor wore this bracelet together with her iconic 
 ‘Wallis blue’ Mainbocher wedding dress during her nuptials held at the
  Château de Candé. That day she also wore a sapphire and diamond brooch 
 of scroll design\, also by Van Cleef & Arpels. The sapphire and diamond br
 acelet was designed by René-Sim Lacaze\, Van Cleef & Arpels’ lead desig
 ner\, who more than anyone else was responsible for the company’s stylis
 tic evolution during the mid-to-late 1930s.
DTSTART;VALUE=DATE:20251208
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